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Showing posts with label Sewing. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Sewing. Show all posts
2.14.2012
Wordless Wednesday: The Quiet Book Edition
Okay, this actually requires a few words... I've been meaning to post this since December, when I finished this quiet book for a client. Yes, I sew for fun and profit! Anyways, if you're my facebook friend, you've seen these all already, but I thought the rest of y'all would enjoy seeing the fruits of my (very intense) labor. Have a lovely Wednesday!
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10.12.2011
If You're Afraid of Sewing
Let's face it-- machine sewing is intimidating. There are a zillion knobs and levers, and threads and lots of little moving pieces... it's enough to make any reasonable person break out into a sweat. And you haven't even sewn a stitch yet! There are certainly many possibilities for making mistakes, and I think this is why many people are afraid to try their hand at sewing... so I thought I'd share my experiences with you.
I consider myself to be pretty knowledgeable at sewing, but let me tell you, I was not always very good. In fact, I was downright terrible.
I started operating a sewing machine in ninth grade. I spent that year making skirts and button-down shirts and dresses, and the following September, I proudly entered them in the Junior sewing division of the county fair. The way the system in my county works, each entry is awarded a ribbon based on its quality: blue (great), red (good), white (not that great), and then whatever's the best gets Grand Prize. I was one of maybe three total entrants in the Junior division, and most of the entries were mine, so I'd have a decent shot at winning Grand Prize, right?
I got white ribbons. I think one piece didn't even earn a ribbon at all, which is pretty much unheard of at that fair.
Let that just soak in for a moment: some judge hated my work so much that she gave white ribbons to nearly all the entries in the entire sewing division of a tiny county fair. To a kid, for crying out loud.
Why am telling you this? To let you know that everyone starts somewhere. You can't play scales for a couple weeks and expect to be a concert pianist. In order to be good at sewing, you have to do a LOT of sewing first. Most of it is probably going to be really horrendous in the beginning-- oddly-shaped products, jammed machines, ripping and re-ripping seams, and ending up half a yard short of fabric (either that, or I was just particularly dumb. Please tell me I'm not the only one that did all this!).
But as you sew more, you will gain experience. You'll learn a shortcut here, a pitfall to avoid there. And one day, you will hold up a finished product and think, hey, I can actually take this one out in public!
So all I'm saying is, don't let the fear of making mistakes hold you back from learning to sew. Just accept that most of your beginning projects are going to be "learning experiences" instead of perfect products, and focus on developing your technique.
One fun way to practice sewing straight lines, curves, and sharp corners is to draw lines on a piece of paper (or print these out) and stitch right over the lines on the paper. Also, practicing on scrap fabric is a very valuable exercise. I still do that even today when I'm not sure how a certain stitch will turn out, or if I'm rusty in some areas, like making buttonholes.
When you're ready to make something, try starting with small projects that involve minimal money and simple techniques. The biggest pitfall in my sewing journey was starting out making dresses and voluminous skirts that required yards of specialty fabric, a purchased pattern, and a wide variety of complicated techniques. After a while, I threw up my hands and asked, "Why am I dropping forty bucks to make a really crappy-looking dress when I could buy one that actually fits for $20???" and gave up sewing for a few years.
Here are a few simple patterns that would make excellent beginner projects:
Ruffled scarf
Throw pillow cover
Shoulder bag purse
Tea Towel Apron
Speaking of sewing, I can't wait to show you my newest project tomorrow! Stay tuned!
I consider myself to be pretty knowledgeable at sewing, but let me tell you, I was not always very good. In fact, I was downright terrible.
I started operating a sewing machine in ninth grade. I spent that year making skirts and button-down shirts and dresses, and the following September, I proudly entered them in the Junior sewing division of the county fair. The way the system in my county works, each entry is awarded a ribbon based on its quality: blue (great), red (good), white (not that great), and then whatever's the best gets Grand Prize. I was one of maybe three total entrants in the Junior division, and most of the entries were mine, so I'd have a decent shot at winning Grand Prize, right?
I got white ribbons. I think one piece didn't even earn a ribbon at all, which is pretty much unheard of at that fair.
Let that just soak in for a moment: some judge hated my work so much that she gave white ribbons to nearly all the entries in the entire sewing division of a tiny county fair. To a kid, for crying out loud.
 |
| Thought I was going to share my cotton candy with you? Well, Judge, THINK AGAIN! |
Why am telling you this? To let you know that everyone starts somewhere. You can't play scales for a couple weeks and expect to be a concert pianist. In order to be good at sewing, you have to do a LOT of sewing first. Most of it is probably going to be really horrendous in the beginning-- oddly-shaped products, jammed machines, ripping and re-ripping seams, and ending up half a yard short of fabric (either that, or I was just particularly dumb. Please tell me I'm not the only one that did all this!).
But as you sew more, you will gain experience. You'll learn a shortcut here, a pitfall to avoid there. And one day, you will hold up a finished product and think, hey, I can actually take this one out in public!
 |
| But please use discretion. |
So all I'm saying is, don't let the fear of making mistakes hold you back from learning to sew. Just accept that most of your beginning projects are going to be "learning experiences" instead of perfect products, and focus on developing your technique.
One fun way to practice sewing straight lines, curves, and sharp corners is to draw lines on a piece of paper (or print these out) and stitch right over the lines on the paper. Also, practicing on scrap fabric is a very valuable exercise. I still do that even today when I'm not sure how a certain stitch will turn out, or if I'm rusty in some areas, like making buttonholes.
When you're ready to make something, try starting with small projects that involve minimal money and simple techniques. The biggest pitfall in my sewing journey was starting out making dresses and voluminous skirts that required yards of specialty fabric, a purchased pattern, and a wide variety of complicated techniques. After a while, I threw up my hands and asked, "Why am I dropping forty bucks to make a really crappy-looking dress when I could buy one that actually fits for $20???" and gave up sewing for a few years.
Here are a few simple patterns that would make excellent beginner projects:
Ruffled scarf
Throw pillow cover
Shoulder bag purse
Tea Towel Apron
Speaking of sewing, I can't wait to show you my newest project tomorrow! Stay tuned!
3.09.2011
Fitted Multi-size Diaper with Pocket-- a Tutorial
It's finally here!!!
This is a tutorial for a multi-size fitted diaper with the top left open, so you can stuff it inside itself to adjust the rise for smaller babies.
A few notes:
What you need:
-Flannel (at least 3/4 of a yard in length). If you want different prints for the inside and outside, you will need at least 3/4 yard of each.
-An old bath towel (the more plush and absorbent, the better!)
-Elastic (I like to use 1/4"-thick for the legs, and 1/2" for the back waist, but 1/4" all around will work just fine)
-Paper grocery bag for making the pattern
-Safety pin (not pictured, whoops!)
-Optional: a washcloth to use as a Snappi grip (I use the cheapy Wal-Mart ones). Unfortunately, flannel isn't that great at holding a Snappi, so unless you plan on using pins, you'll want to add this.
STEP 1: MAKE THE PATTERN
You can trace a diaper you already have, or find a pattern on the web. I used this pattern from this tutorial for a starting point, and tweaked it. I added 1/2 inch to the top for wider tabs (3" instead of 2.5"), and at the other end, I made the diaper stop tapering 3" from the top, for easier stuffing.
If you use the pattern I used, it's helpful to make the piece from a paper grocery bag. For a symmetrical piece, I recommend folding the paper in half, and measuring/tracing/cutting half of the pattern on the fold.
STEP 2: CUT YOUR PIECES OUT
From the outer flannel print:
-One diaper piece from pattern
From the inner flannel print:
-One diaper piece from pattern
After you cut a diaper piece, you should have a small piece of fabric left over like this:
Save it, because you will need to use it later.
From the terry cloth:
-One 13" x 4" piece (I like to round the corners a bit, but you can just leave it square if you'd like)
From the washcloth, if you want Snappi grips:
One 5" x 2.5" piece
Two 3" x 2.5" pieces
I like to cut the corners on these to make folding easier.
STEP 2.5: MAKE THE SNAPPI FRONT
If you are going to attach some terry cloth for Snappi grips, now's the time to attach the front piece! I'm still figuring out the best size and placement, but here's what I have so far. Take your 5" x 2.5" piece, fold each side under 1/2 inch (If you want to make it easier, you can sew those edges down before pinning to the diaper front), and fasten to your outer diaper piece-- about 4 inches down from the front top, down the center.
With a straight stitch, sew 1/4 inch from the edge. Then, using a zigzag stitch, sew right on the edge.
STEP 3: ATTACH THE SOAKER
Pin the your 14" x 4" towel piece to the wrong side of your diaper inner piece. I like to position it about 4 inches from the front top so I can stuff the finished diaper further into itself. Using a straight stitch, sew 1/4 inch from the edge, with the presser foot as your guide.
Remember that scrap of fabric you saved? Pull that out and lay it over the soaker, covering it as best as you can. (Ideally, you want to use the scrap from whichever flannel print is lightest, but for the sake of instruction, I am using the ladybug print, wrong side up, so you can see better). Using your sense of touch as a guide, pin the flannel to the terry cloth, making an outline of the soaker.
Turn the diaper inner over, so that the right side faces you. Using a zigzig stitch, and using the presser foot as a guide, sew along the outside of the straight stitch you just made.
Being careful not to cut the diaper inner, trim the excess fabric off the soaker.
STEP 4: MAKE LEG CASINGS
Some diaper tutorials instruct you to sew the elastic directly to the diaper. I've tried this before, and it compromises the elastic's stretchiness big-time! It also makes replacing the elastic next to impossible. So, we will be sewing leg casings instead.
Place both diaper pieces right sides together, and sew 1/2 inch seam along the back and sides, leaving the front top and tab sides open. Turn right-side-out, and press.
Starting about an inch from the diaper tab curve, sew a 5/8" seam, ending about 4 inches from the front top (where the diaper pattern straightens out). Sew another 5/8" seam along the top back, beginning and ending about 3" from the ends of the tabs.
STEP 5: INSERT ELASTIC
Attach the safety pin to one end of the elastic.
Using the safety pin as a grip, thread the elastic up through the leg casing until it's clear of the end of the casing seam.
Sew across the elastic near the pin. Because I am slightly OCD, I like to make two separate seams about 1/8" apart, sewing and reversing a few times on each. That elastic ain't goin' anywhere!
Holding your new seam, pull the elastic until it's taut, but keep your diaper body straight and unpuckered. If I had another set of hands, I'd show you what I mean. :-( Pinch the elastic at the front top, and pin into place.
Make another seam (or seams) at that end of the leg casing. Clip off the excess elastic. Hooray, you're done with one leg!
Repeat for the other leg and back.
STEP 6: FINISH
Turn the diaper inside-out again and close up the diaper tab seams.
At the diaper front top, turn under 1/4 inch and press. Turn under again (somewhere between 1/4" and 1/2") and press again. Pin into place, and stitch all around. Since I have kind of a love affair with the zigzag stitch, that's what I used, but you could just as easily use a straight stitch.
STEP 6.5: MAKE THE DIAPER TAB SNAPPI GRIPS
Take one of the 3" x 2.5" pieces of terry cloth. Fold and attach to a diaper tab, the same way you attached the front Snappi grip. You may need to play around with the placement to suit your baby, but here is where I place mine for my 20+ pound chunky baby:
Repeat for the other tab.
Congratulations, you made a fitted diaper!
I love the nice, deep, poo-catching pocket it forms inside. I have never had one of these diapers leak yet!
To shorten the rise, you can stuff it inside itself...
And it will fit a smaller baby!
This is a tutorial for a multi-size fitted diaper with the top left open, so you can stuff it inside itself to adjust the rise for smaller babies.
 |
| I LOVE this fabric! |
A few notes:
- I call this "multi-size" instead of one-size, because I'm not sure how small it fits. I started making these for my son when he was 19 pounds, so I'd love to hear how this works for smaller babes!
- This diaper is not waterproof, so you will need a separate cover to make it so. However, if you like to go coverless around the house or practice EC, this diaper is fabulous all by itself!
- I don't know how this works for heavy wetters or over the course of many hours, because I like to change my son just as soon as he gets wet. But, the nice thing is that you can stuff this diaper with an extra insert if you need to!
- You may also have to experiment with the placement and size of the Snappi grips to accommodate your individual baby.
What you need:
-Flannel (at least 3/4 of a yard in length). If you want different prints for the inside and outside, you will need at least 3/4 yard of each.
-An old bath towel (the more plush and absorbent, the better!)
-Elastic (I like to use 1/4"-thick for the legs, and 1/2" for the back waist, but 1/4" all around will work just fine)
-Paper grocery bag for making the pattern
-Safety pin (not pictured, whoops!)
-Optional: a washcloth to use as a Snappi grip (I use the cheapy Wal-Mart ones). Unfortunately, flannel isn't that great at holding a Snappi, so unless you plan on using pins, you'll want to add this.
STEP 1: MAKE THE PATTERN
You can trace a diaper you already have, or find a pattern on the web. I used this pattern from this tutorial for a starting point, and tweaked it. I added 1/2 inch to the top for wider tabs (3" instead of 2.5"), and at the other end, I made the diaper stop tapering 3" from the top, for easier stuffing.
STEP 2: CUT YOUR PIECES OUT
From the outer flannel print:
-One diaper piece from pattern
From the inner flannel print:
-One diaper piece from pattern
After you cut a diaper piece, you should have a small piece of fabric left over like this:
Save it, because you will need to use it later.
From the terry cloth:
-One 13" x 4" piece (I like to round the corners a bit, but you can just leave it square if you'd like)
From the washcloth, if you want Snappi grips:
One 5" x 2.5" piece
Two 3" x 2.5" pieces
I like to cut the corners on these to make folding easier.
STEP 2.5: MAKE THE SNAPPI FRONT
If you are going to attach some terry cloth for Snappi grips, now's the time to attach the front piece! I'm still figuring out the best size and placement, but here's what I have so far. Take your 5" x 2.5" piece, fold each side under 1/2 inch (If you want to make it easier, you can sew those edges down before pinning to the diaper front), and fasten to your outer diaper piece-- about 4 inches down from the front top, down the center.
With a straight stitch, sew 1/4 inch from the edge. Then, using a zigzag stitch, sew right on the edge.
STEP 3: ATTACH THE SOAKER
Pin the your 14" x 4" towel piece to the wrong side of your diaper inner piece. I like to position it about 4 inches from the front top so I can stuff the finished diaper further into itself. Using a straight stitch, sew 1/4 inch from the edge, with the presser foot as your guide.
Remember that scrap of fabric you saved? Pull that out and lay it over the soaker, covering it as best as you can. (Ideally, you want to use the scrap from whichever flannel print is lightest, but for the sake of instruction, I am using the ladybug print, wrong side up, so you can see better). Using your sense of touch as a guide, pin the flannel to the terry cloth, making an outline of the soaker.
 |
| Here, the pins are outlining one end of the soaker |
Turn the diaper inner over, so that the right side faces you. Using a zigzig stitch, and using the presser foot as a guide, sew along the outside of the straight stitch you just made.
Being careful not to cut the diaper inner, trim the excess fabric off the soaker.
STEP 4: MAKE LEG CASINGS
Some diaper tutorials instruct you to sew the elastic directly to the diaper. I've tried this before, and it compromises the elastic's stretchiness big-time! It also makes replacing the elastic next to impossible. So, we will be sewing leg casings instead.
Place both diaper pieces right sides together, and sew 1/2 inch seam along the back and sides, leaving the front top and tab sides open. Turn right-side-out, and press.
Starting about an inch from the diaper tab curve, sew a 5/8" seam, ending about 4 inches from the front top (where the diaper pattern straightens out). Sew another 5/8" seam along the top back, beginning and ending about 3" from the ends of the tabs.
 |
| The pins mark where to begin and end the seams. |
STEP 5: INSERT ELASTIC
Attach the safety pin to one end of the elastic.
Using the safety pin as a grip, thread the elastic up through the leg casing until it's clear of the end of the casing seam.
 |
| The safety pin is up at the top, near the diaper tab |
Sew across the elastic near the pin. Because I am slightly OCD, I like to make two separate seams about 1/8" apart, sewing and reversing a few times on each. That elastic ain't goin' anywhere!
Holding your new seam, pull the elastic until it's taut, but keep your diaper body straight and unpuckered. If I had another set of hands, I'd show you what I mean. :-( Pinch the elastic at the front top, and pin into place.
Make another seam (or seams) at that end of the leg casing. Clip off the excess elastic. Hooray, you're done with one leg!
Repeat for the other leg and back.
STEP 6: FINISH
Turn the diaper inside-out again and close up the diaper tab seams.
At the diaper front top, turn under 1/4 inch and press. Turn under again (somewhere between 1/4" and 1/2") and press again. Pin into place, and stitch all around. Since I have kind of a love affair with the zigzag stitch, that's what I used, but you could just as easily use a straight stitch.
STEP 6.5: MAKE THE DIAPER TAB SNAPPI GRIPS
Take one of the 3" x 2.5" pieces of terry cloth. Fold and attach to a diaper tab, the same way you attached the front Snappi grip. You may need to play around with the placement to suit your baby, but here is where I place mine for my 20+ pound chunky baby:
Repeat for the other tab.
Congratulations, you made a fitted diaper!
I love the nice, deep, poo-catching pocket it forms inside. I have never had one of these diapers leak yet!
To shorten the rise, you can stuff it inside itself...
And it will fit a smaller baby!
******
So, what gives? I have a baby boy, and yet this diaper is clearly for a girl! Well, I don't want to giveaway any answers, but you will want to check back for a special post soon! :-D
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